Portable Solar Kits: Basic Troubleshooting

How to troubleshoot Portable Solar Kits

Portable Solar Kits: Basic Troubleshooting 

How to troubleshoot Portable Solar Kits 

Controller Not Powering On 

The solar controller requires power from the battery in order for it to operate (9-14.9 volts) .  The first step in troubleshooting any solar controller is to determine if you have 12 volts to the controller.  This is done by measuring the input from the battery on the back of the controller.  If the battery voltage is below 9 volts it will not power the controller.  Check the inline fuse between the battery and the controller and your battery and terminal block connections on the controller.   

If this does not work a hard reset is required.  Remove all 4 wires from the back of the controller for 15-20 minutes, then reconnect the wires.  Battery first then solar panel.  Determine if this clears the error state.  

If the solar controller is not receiving 12 volts, try to trace the voltage back to the battery with a multi-meter and determine where the issue lies. Test for a dead battery, and any connection points to identify a loose connection or blown fuse in the cable.  

Moon Symbol on Controller 

If the voltage going into the solar controller drops below 12 volts from the panel, the moon symbol should be showing on the solar controller. This means the panels are not putting forward a high enough voltage and current to charge the batteries.  This identifies two possible issues: lack of sun, or a connection or short issue within the junction box.   

Junction Box Short 

Check and tighten the connections of the solar controller.  Lift the cover off the junction box and measure across the diode.  Make sure there is not a short between the positive and negative wires of the junction box.  Use a conductivity measurement to check this. 

Cover Not in Place 

If power is getting to the controller from the battery and the panels then there may be an issue with the controller.  Make sure the cover on the controller is in place.  Use thumb and forefinger to push it into place.  You can usually tell if it is not if the cover looks crooked from the side.   

 Hard Reset 

If all else fails, the solar controller will need a Hard Reset. To do this, remove all wires for 15-20 minute interval, then re-connect them. If this does not resolve your issues, then the controller will need to be replaced. Contact our Tech Support team to obtain an RMA number. 

 

Problems with Current 

 

Controller does not charge batteries/Controller shows "0.0" amps charging 

Solution 

Troubleshooting steps:  

  1. Ensure batteries are not full; charging amps will drop to near zero if batteries are full (meter behind the batteries, do not trust the display from the controller).  In other words, if the battery is full the controller will not put current to them.
  2. Modules look dirty, overhead object is shading modules or if it is an overcast day in which a shadow cannot be cast. 

Avoid any shading no matter how small it is. An object as small as a broomstick held across the solar module may cause  

the power output to be significantly reduced. Overcast days may also cut the power output of the module. 

 

  1. Ensure solar panel is clean and is in direct sunlight. An obstructed/dirty panel will yield poor results
  2. Check input voltage at controller from solar panel (~18V-20V based on solar panel rating and sun conditions)
  3. 5.            Use a multimeter to measure the output current of each panel. (Note meter must be fused to 10 amps) It is possible the panel outputs current but not voltage.
  4. Check wiring from solar panel to controller and controller to the batteries
  5. Check for any fuse in-line in the system
  6. Perform a hard reset on device. Disconnect all four wires from back of device and let sit for 15 minutes - reconnect all four wires and recheck

 

GP-PWM-30 Controller is Flashing 

This behavior is usually the controller dealing with a very high current or voltage rate (Above 15.5 volts). Even though the controller can handle up to 30A, if the battery capacity is too small for the solar panel input current. The voltage shoots up too high, too quickly, tripping the high voltage flashing. 

It could start up all of a sudden because of increased sun conditions or a change in your battery bank. 

Cover one or part of a panel to see if this stops the flashing from occurring 

If the problem was “fixed”, then it may be because the user started using loads which divert some of the input current, because the panels became dusty or shaded, or because there was less sunlight. 

Ideally, the user should increase their battery bank capacity. 

The other possibility is an unregulated converter or alternator in the system that is putting current to the batteries at the same time.  The solution here is to unplug shore power and reset the controller.  The controller can be reset in two ways: 

First try a soft reset.  This is done by holding down all 4 buttons on the front of the controller for 15 seconds.  If this does not work or you do not have a 4 button controller a hard reset is required.  Remove all 4 wires from the back of the controller for 15-20 minutes, then reconnect the wires.  Determine if this clears the error state. 

If the problem occurs with Lithium batteries try the sealed charge profile 

More descriptive answer below: 

For users who insist upon the lithium iron phosphate batteries now, use the SEALED profile only. It won’t eliminate the issue, but it should reduce it. Any other lithium chemistry shouldn’t be used at all. I wouldn’t recommend using lithium iron phosphate since we didn’t design for that, but some users are going to do what they want anyway. 

 

Products covered in this article: GP-PSK-90, GP-PSK-130, GP-PSK-200, GP-PWM-10-FM, GP-PWM-30-SB