Trouble Shooting GP-RVC-MPPT-30-10 Controllers

Trouble shooting GP-RVC-MPPT-30-10 Controllers

GP-RVC-MPPT-10-30 Trouble Shooting 

Problem. 

Not communicating with Firefly display. 

Explanation: 

This could be an issue with an incorrect instance value or a issue with the soalr controller or a cabling issue between The RVC hub and the solar controller.   Go power does not usually supply RVC cables for connecting RVC hubs with our components.  These are usually supplied by the coach manufacturer so If there is a cable issue replacement parts may need to be supplied by the OEM manufacturer.  Mapping out the cable with a multimeter with the correct resistance measurements may be the only way to track a wiring issue down. 

 

Trouble shooting  

  • First Try and change the instance value on the controller. 

The RV-C instance of an individual controller can be identified by the 5 LEDs on the controller shown below. 

rvc 1

Change the instance value: 

The instance of the solar controller on the RV-C network can be configured using the SET button and LEDs. Up to 5 unique instances 

are supported. To change the instance, follow these steps: 

  1. Hold the SET button down for approximately 3 seconds until one of the LEDs starts flashing. 

RVC-2

  1. Press the SET button to change instance until the LED for the desired instance is flashing.
  2. Press and hold the SET button for approximately 3 seconds to lock in the setting

If the instance value does not initiate communications with the display and the cable appears to be fine, the next thing to check is the solar controller.  Take a resistance measurement with solar and battery wires disconnected from the controller. 

rvc 3

Measure between the bottom two pins and the negative battery connection with a multimeter set to measure ohms, you should see 400-600 Kilo ohms of resistance between both pins 

rvc 4

If you see a low resistance measurement, this will indicate an issue with the solar controller.  The measurement shown above indicates a working unit. 

Problem  

Controller not putting current to the battery. 

Problem Description: 

Controller does not charge batteries/Controller shows "0.0" amps charging 

Explanation: 

Possible issues could be a controller not putting current to the battery or a solar panel outputting voltage but not current or a full battery and the controller not putting current to the battery because it is full.  Could possibly be a wiring issue between the solar panel on the roof and the controller. 

Troubleshooting steps:  

  1. Ensure batteries are not full, charging amps will drop to near zero if batteries are full (meter the batteries, don't trust the display from the controller).  In other words, if the battery is full the controller will not put current to them.
  2. Ensure solar panel is clean and is in direct sunlight. An obstructed/dirty panel will yield poor results
  3. Check input voltage at controller from solar panel (~16V-23V based on solar panel rating and sun conditions)
  4. 4.     Use a multimeter to measure output current at each panel.  (Note meter must be fused to 10 amps) It is possible the panel outputs current but not voltage.  If either voltage or current output is low replace panel.

Add link to video or document  

  1. Check wiring from solar panel to controller and controller to the batteries
  2. Check for any fuse in-line in the system
  3. Perform a hard reset on device. Disconnect all four wires from back of device and let sit for 15 minutes - reconnect all four wires and recheck.  If current is getting to the controller and the controller is still not putting it to the battery after a hard reset the problem may be with the controller.

 

Problem 

 Low solar voltage or current getting to controller. 

Explanation 

If there is a low solar voltage appearing on the controller then the controller is not seeing voltage coming from the solar panel or panels.  When the controller sees no light on the solar panel it thinks it is night- time and shows low voltage.  The first step is to determine how the panels are wired, series or parallel.  This will indicate how much voltage one should expect.  Parallel would be 16-23 vdc while series could be 20-80 volts depending on how many panels are installed.  

 

Trouble shooting 

  1. 1. Check the input voltage coming from each solar panel on the back of the solar controller with a multimeter.  It should be between 16-23 Volts if in parallel (this number may be lower on cloudy days) depending on sun conditions.  If it is 13 volts or lower then this is the reason why the display shows low solar voltage.
  2. If it is 12-13 volts or lower, remove the wires from the solar panel on the back of the solar controller and measure across the raw leads (wires).  If the voltage remain slow there may be a connection issue between the solar panel and the solar controller or a problem with the output of the solar panel.  If the voltage goes up then there maybe a problem with the current output of the solar panel or a connection issue causing a current drop.
  3. Next check both the voltage and current output at the solar panel or if multiple panels are installed at each panel individually.  You should still see the 16- 23 VDC depending on sun conditions.  
  4. If possible, take a current reading of the panel as well.  If the panel produces voltage but not current as soon as it is connected to the solar controller the voltage will drop.  The current should be between 2-9 amps depending on sun conditions and the size of the solar panel. If one panel is lower than the others then there is an issue with just this panel.  If all are the same then trace the wires back to the controller with the meter and determine if there is a connection issue.  If there is a current or voltage issue from the panel then the panel will need to be replaced.  Or a connection issue between the controller and the solar panel repaired.
  5. If voltage and current is getting to the solar controller from the panel and the moon symbol is still visible try a hard reset on the solar controller.  Remove all 4 wires from the back of the controller for 30 minutes, then reconnect the wires.  Battery first then solar panel.  Determine if this clears the error state.  If the error does not clear then the controller will need to be replaced.

 

Possible error codes 

PV reverse 

This error will occur when the polarity of the solar wires getting to the controller are reversed.  Swapping the wire over will eliminate the error 

Bat-war 

This error occurs when the battery voltage at the controller is below the under-voltage warning voltage that has been set up on the controller.  As an example, if this is set to 12 volts on the remote and the battery drops to 12 volts this error would turn on.  Setting it to high would prematurely cause the error.  If it was set correctly then this would indicate the battery is starting to go low. 

Bat UVP 

This error will occur when the battery drops below the battery warning setting on the controller.  If set correctly this may indicate the controller is not charging the batteries or it could indicate a large load in the coach has pulled the batteries too low. 

Bat OVP 

This error indicates the battery voltage has gone above the high voltage setting on the remote.  If set to low this may be ne reason for the error.  It could also indicate a lithium battery has opened up its charge switch any not allowed charge to the battery which has raised the perceived battery voltage above the setting.  This is typically 15-16 VDC.  It also could indicate another charging source has pushed the battery voltage to high or a controller putting to much current to the battery when the battery is full. 

Bat NC 

This error would indicate that a battery is not connected to battery one connections on the controller.